Metal finishing on a firearm is not as complicated as you might think and the options have changed over the years. In days past you would have had to have bluing tanks and all the toxic chemicals that process entails. While bluing is still an excellent way to finish a rifle, the hobby gunsmith will likely have better results with spray on coatings. In fact, with the stainless steel guns so popular today, a spray on coating is the only option for a new finish.

A coating type finish not only looks good, but will protect the metal from rust in a way that bluing cannot. Bluing is a form of rust and any protection must be applied as a barrier to water, such as oil. However, the coating finishes are in effect a barrier themselves that insulate the metal from moisture.

There is several coating-type metal finishes on the market, but most require oven drying. A rifle’s barrel and action is too long to fit in the kitchen oven, so that means buying or making an expensive shop oven, which can be a problem for a hobby gunsmith. At least one coating, though, DuraCoat by Lauer Custom Weaponry can air dry. DuraCoat is available in 75 different colors, including seven “electric” neon colors and clear, which can protect bluing. They even have pink, as one female hunting buddy recently requested.

With a Model 94 Winchester rifle that I refinished in a project I called “Pimp My Rifle” I had considered something like Electric Lavender. I am secure enough in my manhood to use a rifle like that, but in the end it is a hunting rifle and I wanted something more to that theme than a parade gun for Gay Pride day. I settled on a color called SOCOM which is designed for “tactical” guns for police or military. This low key, non reflective gray with a slight hint of green was a perfect color for a hunting gun. On my .458 Winchester rifle I used flat black. When I built a .358 Winchester on a Remington Model 700 action, I used a color called Sniper Green on the metal and flat black on the stock. That gun soon was dubbed “The Green Goblin” by a hunting buddy. The point is the options are wide when it comes to colors. When you consider that you can combine colors to custom mix your own, they are almost limitless.

It is so easy to apply that I got it pretty much right on the first try and I am not good with sticky substances or anything resembling painting. Believe me, if I can do this anybody can. I use a relatively inexpensive gravity feed spray gun that is powered by my shop air compressor. But I have also used one of the DuraCoat Finishing kits that come with an airbrush sprayer, propellant, hoses and all the materials.
All the metal must be degreased with a solvent that dries without residue. This can be done with aerosol spray cans of degreasing agent, but it’s better in every circumstance and necessary if the barrel and action are together, to have a tank of degreasing solvent for soaking parts. I use TruStrip Solvent available from Lauer Custom Weaponry, and one of their solution tanks. This tank is long enough to put the entire barreled action in with room left over. I scrub the gun with a small brush and then let it soak for half an hour before removing it and letting it air dry. After that I handle the gun only while wearing gloves. I use latex gloves and wash them to remove the powder, or cotton inspection gloves.

DuraCoat can be applied over just about any clean surface and I have simply degreased a rifle and coated over the old bluing. In that case, I roughed it up a bit with a Scotchbrite pad, degreased and sprayed. The result was actually pretty good, but not as durable or even-looking as when the metal is prepared first.

The best approach is to sandblast the metal parts to be coated so that the DuraCoat has plenty of area to adhere to. The rough surface from sandblasting actually increases surface area for the DuraCoat to grip and gives it “tooth.” Tape off anything you don’t want sandblasted with several layers of masking tape. Plug any holes with modeling clay.

For my first projects I used the gravity feed sandblaster and worked outdoors, considering the sand a consumable. But, it wasn’t long before I invested in an enclosed blasting cabinet where the sand can be recovered and where the blasting is done inside a closed environment.

Keep the sandblaster moving and watch the metal so that you have an even sheen to the finish. If you are not using a cabinet, be sure to wear thick leather gloves, long sleeves, a respirator, face shield and goggles. I know from painful experience that this stuff will sandblast the skin off your hands in a split second.

Don’t forget to sandblast all the small parts that you are planning to coat. That includes the bottom metal, scope mounts, action screws and even the bolt. If you decide to coat the bolt, make sure to tape off the lugs as you do not want to sandblast or coat them.

One thing to remember is that any screw that shows on both sides of the rifle must be prepped and coated on both ends. Do you wonder why I know that? I coated only the heads on those screws on my Winchester Model 94 project. Of course I discovered that mistake after cleaning up the spray gun and putting it away. I had to mix up more DuraCoat, spray the end of the screws, then dump out the excess and clean the air brush again. It’s a lesson I will remember. Once all the metal has an even texture, remove all the tape and clay. Degrease again if needed.

It is a simple matter to follow the directions to set up the air brush or spray gun and to mix the DuraCoat. The key is in adjusting the air pressure and the volume of DuraCoat by testing on a piece of newspaper until the spray pattern is just right. It’s best to apply DuraCoat in very thin layers, so adjust for a fine spray. Several thin coats are better than one thick coat.

After coating all the metal, let it set undisturbed for at least 24 hours. After that the parts can be handled, but it may take a week or longer for DuraCoat to reach its full hardness.

Another air dry product is Brownells Aluma-Hyde II. This is an aerosol spray-on coating that’s offered in several colors. Prep work is the same, but you don’t need an air compressor or an air brush to apply it. Simply spray from the can and let it cure.